The short answer
- Raw means the fabric hasn't been washed or treated after dyeing and weaving. It's about finish.
- Selvedge is about how the edge is woven. A raw pair can be selvedge or not, and a selvedge pair can be washed.
- Sanforized is about shrinkage: whether the fabric was pre-shrunk. Raw denim can be either.
- Three words, three separate questions. Don't read one as the answer to another.
Raw denim is denim that has been dyed and woven and then left alone: no wash, no softening, no fading treatment. It comes dark, stiff and a little crisp, and over months of wear it fades in the places you move most. That's the definition. The rest of the confusion comes from two other terms that get stapled to it.
Raw vs washed
Most jeans are washed before they reach you, to soften them, set the color and make the fit predictable. Raw jeans skip that step. The difference you notice is stiffness and shade: raw is darker and firmer, washed is softer and often lighter. For what break-in feels like, how to wash raw jeans for the first time and when raw isn't for you, see our raw denim, shrinkage and break-in guide.
Raw vs selvedge: different things
Selvedge is a type of woven edge on the fabric, made on older shuttle looms. It tells you how the cloth was woven. Raw tells you how it was finished. So you can have raw selvedge, washed selvedge, raw non-selvedge or washed non-selvedge. The two often appear together because denim enthusiasts like both, but one doesn't imply the other. Our guide to what selvedge denim is shows how to spot the edge.
Sanforized vs unsanforized
Sanforizing is a mechanical pre-shrinking of the fabric at the mill. Unsanforized denim hasn't had it, so it shrinks more the first time it's soaked or washed. This is the part most people miss: raw and sanforized aren't opposites. A raw pair can be sanforized, meaning it has been pre-shrunk without being washed, or unsanforized, meaning it will shrink noticeably. If you buy raw, find out which.
| Term | What it describes | The question it answers |
|---|---|---|
| Raw | Finish: not washed or treated after weaving | How does it feel and fade? |
| Selvedge | Weave: self-finished edge from a shuttle loom | How was the cloth made? |
| Sanforized | Pre-shrinking at the mill | How much will it shrink? |
Our raw option
We offer Japanese-style Selvedge, 14 oz, as a fabric choice (+$40), and Raw Indigo as a wash. It pairs best with straighter cuts like the men's straight and the women's straight. We don't quote a shrinkage figure here, so if you plan to soak or wash a pair, tell us in the notes for your tailor before you order. Each pair is made to your measurements, and the Fit Guarantee covers your first pair in that fit: tell us within 30 days of delivery for a free remake or up to $25 toward a local alteration. If 14 oz sounds heavy, see the denim weight guide.
Questions
Is raw denim the same as selvedge?
No. Raw is about the finish (unwashed), selvedge is about the weave (a woven edge). A pair can be one, both or neither.
Does raw denim always shrink?
Not always. It depends on whether it was sanforized (pre-shrunk). Unsanforized raw denim shrinks a lot more than sanforized raw.
Why is raw denim so stiff?
It hasn't been washed or softened, and it's usually heavier and tighter-woven. It loosens with wear.
Should I wash raw jeans?
Eventually, yes. How soon is a personal choice, and the break-in guide linked above covers a first-wash checklist.