The short answer
- A bootcut is slim to the knee and opens just enough to sit over a boot. It is the quietest of the opened-hem cuts.
- Hem length is the whole look: long enough to cover most of a heel or boot shaft, but not so long it frays.
- Non-boot shoes work too. A slim loafer or a kitten heel keeps the hem clean; a chunky shoe needs a slightly longer leg.
- The 2026 version sits higher, opens less and uses a cleaner wash than the low, heavily faded 2000s pair.
If you wore bootcuts the first time, the 2026 version looks different. Who What Wear has run both shoe-pairing and kitten-heel pieces on the cut this year, and the shapes they feature are slimmer through the thigh and easier through the knee. Our bootcut is cut that way. Finished garment, measured around: women's has a 20.5" thigh, 14.5" knee and 18.5" opening on a 28" waist; men's has a 23.5" thigh, 16.5" knee and 18.5" opening on a 32" waist.
Both are available as women's bootcut and men's bootcut, so the advice below works for either; where it differs, we say so.
Then and now
| The 2000s version | A current version | |
|---|---|---|
| Rise | Low, often under the hip bone | Mid to high; women's from low to high, men's mid |
| Wash and finish | Heavy fading, whiskering, sandblasting | Cleaner washes, dark or mid, minimal distressing |
| Opening | Wide, often paired with a long, dragging hem | A modest opening, hemmed to just clear the floor |
| Top half | Short top over a low waistband | A tucked tee or knit that shows the waist |
This describes the general shift in how the cut is worn; individual styles vary.
Hem length: boots first
A bootcut is designed to go over a boot, so start there. Measure with the boot on. The hem should fall about half an inch off the floor at the back and cover most of the boot shaft, with the toe showing. If you wear a heeled boot, that is a longer inseam than your flat shoes need; how to measure inseam shows how to take it in the right shoe. Skinny and slim legs tuck into tall boots; a bootcut does not, so keep it for ankle and mid boots.
Shoes that are not boots
| Shoe | Hem | Why it works |
|---|---|---|
| Sleek loafers | Touching the top of the shoe, off the floor | Streamlined shoe, the hem's width shows |
| Kitten or block heels | Covering most of the heel, ½" off the floor | The hem lengthens the leg without a stiletto |
| Low sneakers | At the ankle bone or slightly lower | Not too chunky; the opening stays visible |
| Chunky sneakers | Full length over the shoe | A longer hem balances the larger shoe |
| Flat sandals | Off the floor, toes visible | Best in the warm months with a lightweight cloth |
The shoes matrix covers the rest of the cuts. Choosing between this and a wider opening? Bootcut vs flare sets them side by side.
Pockets and proportion
An opened hem makes the rest of the leg look narrower by comparison, so small details count. Back pockets that sit too low or too small make the seat look longer; a pocket of a medium size, set a little higher, balances the hem. A slightly heavier denim, such as our 13 oz Classic Rigid, holds the opening in shape, while a stretch fabric gives a softer, closer line through the thigh. If you are between two lengths, go longer: a bootcut hem that is too short looks like a mistake, while one that is half an inch long just looks like a boot-ready pair, and a tailor can take it up. When you are choosing, hold the pair against the floor in the shoe you plan to wear and look from the side, not just the front.
Men and women: what differs
The men's bootcut is a mid-rise cut on a 32" waist, with a 23.5" thigh and an 18.5" opening. The women's, on a 28" waist, has a 20.5" thigh and the same 18.5" opening. So the opening is a bigger step out from the thigh on the women's cut, which is why a heel or a pointed boot suits it, while the men's reads as a subtle bootcut over a work boot or Chelsea boot. The women's version is available from low to high rise. In both cases, the 18.5" opening only works if the shoe is substantial enough to sit under it.
Tops
With a slim upper leg and an opened hem, the easiest top is a fitted tee or knit, tucked or half-tucked. Cropped jackets and blazers keep the leg long; a long, loose top flattens the shape. For men, a plain tee or a button-down with sleeves rolled does the same job.
When not to wear bootcut
- You always wear tall boots over your jeans. Choose a skinny or slim cut.
- You want a bare ankle every day. Bootcut needs length; a straight or mom cut is easier.
- You commute by bike or on many stairs: a wide, long hem is a nuisance.
Questions
Are bootcut jeans back in style?
Who What Wear's 2026 coverage includes shoe and outfit pieces on bootcut jeans, describing the cut as back; it is a current option, not a rule.
What shoes look good with bootcut jeans?
Boots, of course, but also sleek loafers, kitten heels and block heels. Keep the shoe slimmer than the hem is wide.
How long should bootcut jeans be?
About half an inch off the floor at the back, measured in the shoes you will wear. Covering most of the boot shaft or heel is the target.
What is the difference between bootcut and flare?
A bootcut opens modestly (ours to 18.5 inches) and is fitted to the knee for boots. A flare opens more (ours to 22 inches in the women's cut) and is the more dramatic shape.