The short answer
- Darker washes look dressier and slimmer; lighter washes look relaxed and show the shape of the leg more.
- Raw and dark indigo fade over time; light and bleached washes have already done most of their fading.
- Black fades toward grey; ecru is off-white and shows marks most easily.
- If you'll own one pair, make it dark wash. If you own several, add a mid or light wash next.
A "wash" is how much a pair has been lightened, and how, after the indigo went on. Raw denim hasn't been washed at all; light and bleached jeans have been washed and treated until much of the blue has gone. Black, grey and ecru step outside indigo altogether. Each shade looks different on day one and ages differently after a year.
All eight washes at a glance
| Wash | Looks like | How it ages | Dressy or casual |
|---|---|---|---|
| Raw Indigo | Deep, inky, even blue; crisp | Fades to your own creases and wear | Dressiest blue |
| Dark | Deep blue, already soft | Slow, gradual fading | Smart casual |
| Mid | Classic everyday blue | Steady, even fading | Everyday casual |
| Light | Pale, worn-in blue | Changes little; mostly done fading | Relaxed, weekend |
| Bleached (+$5) | Very pale, almost sky blue | Changes little | Casual, summery |
| Black | Solid black | Fades toward charcoal and grey | Dressy to casual |
| Grey | Soft charcoal to stone | Softens and lightens slowly | Versatile, understated |
| Ecru (+$5) | Natural off-white, undyed look | Shows marks; can mellow | Casual, summery |
How each wash is made, in brief
Indigo-dyed cotton fades because the dye sits mostly on the outside of the yarn (our guide to how denim gets its color explains why). Factories lighten jeans by washing them with abrasives such as pumice stones, with enzymes that soften the surface, or with bleaching and newer laser and ozone treatments. The longer and harder the process, the lighter the result. Raw indigo skips all of this. Black and grey denim are dyed with other colors instead of, or as well as, indigo. Ecru is the natural color of undyed or very lightly treated cotton.
What the wash does to your fit
- Dark colors show fewer shadows, so the leg looks longer and slimmer. A dark straight leg reads neater than a light one.
- Light colors catch light on every curve and fold, so they show the shape of the cut. Barrel, mom and wide legs look their most deliberate in a lighter wash.
- Fades naturally highlight the front thigh and knee. If you'd rather not draw the eye there, choose a darker, even wash.
A simple rule for choosing
- One pair only: dark wash. It works at the office, at dinner and at the weekend.
- Second pair: mid or light wash for weekends, or black if you dress mostly in neutrals.
- For work: raw, dark or black, with a clean hem and no distressing.
- For summer: light, bleached or ecru (see how to stay cool in jeans).
- To watch them change: raw indigo. Read raw denim break-in first.
When to skip a wash
- Raw indigo if you have pale sofas or white sneakers you love: new raw denim rubs color off.
- Ecru and bleached if you commute on dusty trains or have small children: marks show.
- Black if you want it jet black for years: almost all black denim drifts toward grey with washing.
- Light wash if you need jeans for a smart office.
Choosing a wash at Jeanszilla
Every adult style comes in all eight washes, with Bleached and Ecru at +$5. Combine the wash with your fit: a dark wash on men's slim for work, a light wash on mom jeans for weekends, or raw indigo on men's straight. Thread color changes the look of a wash too; see denim thread colors and topstitching.
Or browse women's styles.
Questions
What is the most versatile jeans wash?
Dark wash. It's smart enough for many offices, relaxed enough for weekends, and fades slowly.
What's the difference between raw indigo and dark wash?
Raw indigo hasn't been washed at all, so it's crisp and will fade to your wear. Dark wash has been washed once or lightly, so it's softer from day one and changes more slowly.
Does black denim fade?
Almost always, toward charcoal or grey, especially at seams and where you bend. Washing inside out in cold water and drying away from heat slows it.
What is ecru denim?
Ecru is a natural off-white, the color of undyed or very lightly treated cotton. It's a warm alternative to white jeans.
Do light-wash jeans make legs look bigger?
Light washes show more of the leg's shape and folds, while dark washes hide shadows. It's an optical effect, not a size change.
